Boise lawn care

Pests can completely destroy your lawn, so if you think you may have a pest problem have it taken care of soon! There are many types of lawn bugs. Below is a list of a few lawn bugs in Idaho. Remember that a healty lawn is a good defense against insect pests.

1. Grubs What are they?

Grubs are the larval form of much more destructive insects, like Japanese beetles.

Which stage does damage?

Unfortunately, each stage of the grub can do damage to the garden.  Grubs eat the roots and stems of young plants.  Moles like to eat the grubs and are drawn to lawns with high grub populations.  Moles make tunnels and runways in the lawn.  Any grubs that are allowed to mature turn into Japanese beetles, which chow their way through prized plants like roses.

How do you get rid of them?

The best way to rid the garden of grubs is to apply Milky Spore, a bacteria that destroys the grubs.  This needs to be applied to the lawn at the proper time to work-when grubs are young.  This treatment works especially well when entire communities inoculate their lawns at one time.  The bonus effect of controlling grubs is that you also control moles and the adult grub populations, as well.

2. Chinch Bugs What are they?

Chinch bugs are one of the rare lawn insects that is found all over the United States. The adult orm is scarcely bigger than a ladybug.  They damage plants by sucking the juices out of the leaves.

Which state does damage?

The larval form does the most damage to lawns, hatching in April and May, and feeding on grass during the hot, dry summer months.  They overwinter as adults in the thatch layer of grass.

How do you get rid of them?

It is very difficult to rid a lawn of chinch bugs.  One of the most effective treatments is to plant resistant grass.  Some types of St. Augustine are more resistant to chinch bugs than other grass types.

3. Billbugs What are they?

Billbugs are the worst pests of Kentucky Bluegrass lawns.  The larvae of these bugs look like small grains of rice.  They feed on the stems of the grass, right at the base of the stem, which caused the grass to turn brown and die.

Which stage causes damage?

These bugs overwinter as adults.  The adults lay eggs in April and May, and the larvae commence eating the grass blades.  They turn to adults around the end of October.  These lawn insects begin to overwinter in late October in piles of leaves.

How can you get rid of them?

To keep these lawn insects out of your yard, it is best to discard leaf piles, or not keep leaf piles near the turf.

4. Sod Webworms What are they?

Adults are sometimes called “sod moths” because they fly up when disturbed from the grass.  They lay eggs as they fly, which become the ravenous caterpillars.  They overwinter as caterpillars in the soil, only to emerge in the spring to become adults and breed.

Which stage causes damage?

Sod webworms cause damage mostly in the caterpillar form.  They stay in this larval form for most of the year, eating everything they can reach.

How can you get rid of them?

The best way to rid your lawn of these pests is to irrigate and fertilize regularly.  Grass that is stressed is most susceptible to pest damage.

Not all lawn insects are destructive, but the insects described are both destructive and highly prevalent.  For a healthy lawn, it is best to keep these lawn insects under control

lawncare.net

Cool season grasses On average, these climates have cold winters and warm/hot summers. Usually they also have regular intervals of rain throughout the summer months, but grasses will tolerate some extended periods of draught by going dormant.

Transition zone grasses There is a “transition zone” between northern and southern turf regions, which follows the lower elevations of Virginia and North Carolina west through West Virginia, Kentucky, Tennessee and Arkansas and includes southern Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri and Kansas. In this transition zone, neither warm nor cool season grasses are uniformly successful. However, several of the northern or “cool season” grasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass and tall fescue, do well across Kentucky, Virginia, West Virginia and Missouri. Tall fescue is the best choice in Tennessee, North Carolina, northern Georgia, northern Alabama and the Texas panhandle. In the lower elevations of these latter states warm season grasses do well too.

Warm zone grasses In some ways, growing and maintaining a good-looking lawn in the South is more involved than in the North. Choosing grass varieties is trickier; many grass varieties do much better when started as plugs or sod than from seed, as is usually done in the North. Good soil is critically important for growing a low maintenance lawn in this region. Most all warm weather grasses will turn brown when cooler temperatures arrive. Some southern gardeners seed their existing lawns with ryegrass each fall to maintain green color during the winter months. This is called “winter overseeding.”

Maintaining ideal growing conditions for your particular grass type is critical, otherwise unwanted grass varieties will start popping up and will be extremely difficult to remove. For example, St. Augustine grass being invaded by Bermuda and vice versa.

Mixtures and Blends Cool-season grass seeds are frequently packaged in either a mixture or a blend. Mixtures have two or more species of grass, and blends contain two or more cultivars of the same species.

There are many advantages to planting a mixture or blend. For one thing, the turf will be more resistant to diseases and pests, because each cultivar or species has its own strengths and weaknesses. Since most lawns have a variety of growing conditions, different grasses can grow where they are best adapted within your lawn.

In a typical grass seed mixture containing bluegrass, ryegrass, and fine fescue, the fescues will thrive in shady portions of the lawn, while bluegrass likes sunny areas. If conditions should turn adverse for one grass, you won't lose the entire lawn, just the part that's made up of the susceptible grass.

Unlike cool-season grasses, warm-season grasses tend to be planted as monostands, meaning a single type of seed is planted, not a mixture. Their growth via stolons and rhizomes makes them so vigorous that other grasses cannot compete.

Because of their distinctive appearance, some grasses, such as the original tall fescues and most native grasses, also look better planted alone.

Grass seed labels Thanks to the passage of the Federal Seed Act of 1936, grass-seed labeling must meet certain requirements. You'll know at a glance what is in any given box of seed, including what percentage of the seed will germinate.

When you shop for seed, compare brands closely and remember the adage, "the lawn you grow is no better than the seed you buy." The extra expense for higher-quality seed is usually worth it.

Check labels and avoid mixtures containing lower-quality grasses, like timothy, meadow fescue, orchard grass, tall oatgrass, and annual ryegrass.


 american-lawns.com

Tip #1 -- Don't Misapply FertilizerFertilizing is one of the best lawn maintenance choices you can make. But misapply it, and things turn ugly. The nitrogen in fertilizer can burn your lawn, and when temperatures soar, the likelihood of burning goes up. To prevent damage, go for a slow-release fertilizer with a lower nitrogen content than usual and follow the directions carefully.

Tip #2 -- Do Water Your LawnOne of the most common summer lawn care pitfalls is inadequate watering. You may be watering your lawn like normal, but the evaporation that results from the heat means that less of that water is getting to your lawn's roots. Water until the moisture gets about six inches into the soil, and consider increasing the number of times per week you turn on the sprinklers.

Tip #3 -- Don't Slip and SlideIf your kids are just dying for a Slip and Slide, giving one to the neighbors is the way to go. Your lawn has done nothing but provide you with a soft green all-purpose summer surface. Don't even think about smothering it with plastic it in return.

 allaboutlawns.com

Boise Lawn Care

Maintenance Tip #1 As winter approaches, gradually lower the mowing height of your mower. Winter should begin without any young, tender growth that makes your lawn more appealing to winter diseases.

Besides, new growth on the lawn is vulnerable to dry out after the first winter winds come through, which will give you a brown winter lawn. So for the sake of lawn maintenance, as winter approaches, begin to gradually reduce the cutting height on your mower, until you are almost, but not quite, shaving the lawn. However, be sure to do this in several steps to avoid suddenly removing all the green leaf tissue and damaging the turf.

Winter Lawn Maintenance Tip #2 In late fall, be sure to give your lawn a final fertilization. Inactive during winter, your lawn won't use the fertilizers immediately. Much like mammals bulking up for the cold, your lawn will store these nutrients in its root system and take full advantage of them at the first signs of spring.

Winter Lawn Maintenance Tip #3 Clear your lawn of any debris like logs, toys, or gardening equipment. Once snow comes, these objects can smother your grass, damage your turf, and leave your lawn more vulnerable to diseases.

Winter Lawn Maintenance Tip #4 Be sure to aerate your lawn before the first freeze. Thatch will only get worse with the affects of winter. A good aeration, along with a round of fertilization, will set the stage for bountiful spring growth.

Winter Lawn Maintenance Tip #5Winter is a great time to learn more about your garden and your lawn in particular. Take this time to buy some lawn maintenance books and research the Internet for tips on how to keep a beautiful lawn and garden.

Spring is one of the most wonderful Seasons of the year. Everything is starting to come alive and the weather is perfect for a nice afternoon on a freshly cut lawn!

Lawn Care Clean Up Even if you cleared out leaves and debris in the fall, there's still work to be done come spring. Your first lawn maintenance job is to get out a rake and sweep up fallen branches, old clippings, evergreen needles, and whatever else has accumulated over the winter.

Spread the Snow If the temperature warms up and the soil thaws, but there are piles of snow remaining, the grass under the snow may not develop. A little preventative lawn care will save the day. Get out a shovel and spread the snow around evenly, so it can all melt at once.

Kill That CrabgrassIf your lawn had a crabgrass problem last year, it will again this year, unless you treat it with a pre-emergence herbicide. This lawn maintenance task requires careful timing - you need to treat your lawn two weeks before crabgrass germinates in your area. Figure out when that is.

OverseedSpring lawns are often a little patchy. Rather than waiting for them to fill in naturally, you can give them a helping hand by spreading new seeds on top of your existing lawn. Keep in mind, though, that crabgrass killing and new seeding are lawn care tasks that don't mix. After any sort of herbicide application, wait at least a month before spreading new seed.

Those first signs of returning green can be thrilling. Capture that energy to get out there and take care of a few spring lawn maintenance musts.


allaboutlawns.com

As the scorching summer heat draws to an end, it's a great time to plan for fall lawn care. Your grass has been a real trooper, surviving wicked temperatures, a ceaseless parade of barbecues, rough play, and the other rites of summertime lawn brutality. Now, more than ever, it's time to administer first aid, fertilizer, and broadleaf weed killers.

It's a common misconception that once summer's over, your lawn won't need food for growth until spring. The truth is, if you feed your lawn before the chill of winter, you'll be surprised at the vibrant condition of your grass come next spring. Many people split fall lawn feedings into two fertilizer sessions: one in early fall and the other just before the first cold snap.

Tips for Successful Fall Lawn Care Why would you fertilize grass for the winter? Lawns experience significant underground root growth through the colder months. It may not look busy topside -- or at all, if you get snow -- but your lawn is busy below the surface. Consider fertilizers high in nitrogen and potassium for fall feeding.

Did you know that a nice lush landscape can bring your property value up 5%-15%? Well it can. There are so many benefits do to a lush landscape. Ask any real estate agent. An agent knows how much easier it is to sell a home withe the curb appeal of a well-kept lawn than one with a lawn full of weeds. An attractive sends a signal to buyers that the rest of the home is most likely well kept and is worth a premium price.
Healthy, well-maintained lawns provide truly marvelous enviromental benefits. A healthy lawn is an amazingly efficient production system. Grass plants remoce carbon dioxide from the air and produce oxygen in return. Just 625 square feet of grass supplies all the oxygen a person needs for one day.A 5,000 square foot home lawn produces enough oxygen for eight people each day.
Here are just a couple of benefits of a nice landscape. So remember that a nice lawn is not only good for your investment, it's also good for our enviroment.

Mulch Mulching is one of the most important ways to maintain healthy landscape plants. A mulch is any material applied to the soil surface for protection or improvement of the area covered. Mulching is really nature’s idea. Nature produces large quantities of mulch all the time with fallen leaves, needles, twigs, pieces of bark, spent flower blossoms, fallen fruit and other organic material.
Benefits of Mulching

When applied correctly, mulch has the following beneficial effects on plants and soil:
Mulches prevent loss of water from the soil by evaporation.
Mulches reduce the growth of weeds, when the mulch material itself is weed-free and applied deeply enough to prevent weed germination or to smother existing weeds.
Mulches keep the soil cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter, thus maintaining a more even soil temperature.
Mulches prevent soil splashing, which not only stops erosion but keeps soil-borne diseases from splashing up onto the plants.
Organic mulches can improve the soil structure. As the mulch decays, the material becomes topsoil. Decaying mulch also adds nutrients to the soil.
Mulches prevent crusting of the soil surface, thus improving the absorption and movement of water into the soil.
Mulches prevent the trunks of trees and shrubs from damage by lawn equipment.
Mulches help prevent soil compaction.
Mulches can add to the beauty of the landscape by providing a cover of uniform color and interesting texture to the surface.
Mulched plants have more roots than plants that are not mulched, because mulched plants will produce additional roots in the mulch that surrounds them.
Types of Mulches

There are basically two types of mulches: organic and inorganic. Both types may have their place in the garden.

An organic mulch is a mulch made of natural substances such as bark, wood chips, leaves, pine needles, or grass clippings. Organic mulches attract insects, slugs, cutworms and the birds that eat them. They decompose over time and need to be replaced after several years.

Inorganic mulches, such as gravel, pebbles, black plastic and landscape fabrics, do not attract pests and they do not decompose.

Mulch Materials

Organic Mulch Materials
Your yard "trash" can be recycled as mulch with the advantage of retaining the nutrients found in these organic materials, in addition to saving money otherwise spent in transporting and disposing of the yard trash.

Grass Clippings
The best use for grass clippings is to leave them on the lawn. Grass clippings will decompose rapidly, adding nutrients back into the soil. A two-inch layer of grass clippings provides weed control if they are not full of weed seeds. It is best to build up the layer gradually using dry grass, not fresh clippings, to prevent the formation of a solid mat. Be careful not to use clippings from lawns that have been treated with herbicides.

Hay and Straw
Never use hay for mulch since it contains too many weed seeds. Straw decomposes rapidly, so you will have to replenish it to keep the weeds down. Straw is not very ornamental and is best for a vegetable garden or over newly sown lawns. Straw will improve the soil as it decays.

Leaf Mold
Leaf mold has a tendency to form a crust, preventing water from penetrating into the soil. It is better to use leaf mold as a soil amendment than as a mulch.

Leaves
A 2- to 3- inch layer of leaves provides good weed control. It is best to shred the leaves coarsely, using a shredder or your lawn mower. Whole leaves have a tendency to blow away, while finely shredded leaves do not allow water to penetrate. Oak and beech leaves help to acidify the soil for acid-loving plants. Leaves are usually easy to get, attractive as a mulch, and they will improve the soil once they decompose. After the leaves decompose, dig them into the soil and add a new layer of mulch on top.

Pine Bark
A 2- to 3- inch layer of pine bark is good for weed control. Pine bark makes an attractive, usually dark-colored mulch. It can be purchased in various particle sizes, from shredded to large-sized particles, called nuggets. Large pine bark nuggets float in water and may not stay in place during a heavy rain. They may also attract termites and other insects.

Pine Needles
A 2- inch layer of pine needles makes an excellent mulch for acid-loving trees and shrubs. This mulch is very attractive and allows water to penetrate easily.

Shredded Hardwood Mulch
This mulch is good at suppressing weeds. It does not wash away easily. It decomposes relatively slowly, and it is very attractive.

Wood Chips
This material contains bark and pieces of wood of various sizes and makes an attractive mulch. A 2- to 3- inch layer of wood chips provides good weed control. Small wood chips decompose very rapidly using nitrogen from the soil, which needs to be replaced by nitrogen fertilizer. Wood chips may attract termites and other insects.

Pecan Shells
Pecan shells make a long-lasting, attractive, dark brown mulch that is effective in retaining moisture in the soil. Availability is usually limited to areas where pecans are processed.

Ground Cover
Many perennial ground cover plants, such as ivy, periwinkle, pachysandra, mondo grass and liriope, will cover the soil and act as a mulch.

Inorganic Mulch Materials:

Gravel, Pebbles and Crushed Stone
These materials are permanent and are best used for permanent plantings such as foundation plants. A 1- inch layer of small rocks will provide good weed control. Do not use them around acid-loving plants since the rocks may add alkaline elements and minerals to the soil. These materials reflect solar radiation and can create a very hot landscape environment during the summer months.

Black Plastic
Black polyethylene film is very effective in preventing weed growth. It also holds water in the soil. Therefore, plastic is not recommended for poorly-drained areas as it may cause the soil to remain too wet, which could result in root disease problems. You may have to cut holes in the plastic if water does not go through it. There is black plastic available that has small holes in it to help with drainage. If exposed to sunlight, black plastic is broken down fast, losing its effectiveness as a mulch. However, if you bury black plastic in the soil, it will last for many years. Covering the black plastic with a layer of wood chips or pine needles will reduce heat absorption and mask its artificial appearance.

Clear Plastic
Clear plastic will not suppress weed growth because light penetrates the film and raises the soil temperature, which may result in an increased growth of weeds in early spring.

Landscape Cloth or Woven Ground Cloth
Materials woven of fabric, plastic or paper are available in various lengths and widths. The materials are treated to resist decomposition. Unlike plastic films, woven materials allow water and air to move through them. They are very effective in controlling most weeds, although some grasses may grow up through the holes in the fabric. Landscape cloth needs to be fastened down so it will not be pushed up by perennial weeds. Better moisture, temperature and weed control will be obtained by adding several inches of another mulching material on top of the landscape cloth.

Aluminum-coated plastic and foil
One layer of either one of these materials provides excellent weed control. These materials decompose very slowly, but they are very expensive and quite unattractive mulches.

Ground Rubber Tires
Mulches made of ground rubber tires do not decompose and therefore, never need to be replaced. The use of ground rubber tires is relatively new and its effectiveness as a mulch is still being evaluated.

Where to Use Mulch

Mulching is a very important practice for establishing new plantings, because it helps to conserve moisture in the root ball of the new plant until the roots have grown out into the surrounding soil. The growth rate and health of trees and shrubs increases when there is no competition for water and nutrients from weeds. Mulch also helps to prevent tree trunk injury by mowers and trimmers. Newly planted trees require a circle of mulch 3 to 4 feet in diameter. Maintain this for five years. Mulch entire beds of shrubs, trees, annuals, herbaceous perennials and ground covers.

Mulch can also be used to cover trails, driveways, and play and natural areas.

Light-weight mulch such as dried grass clippings and pine straw can be used temporarily to cover low-growing tender plants to protect them from frost injury.

When and How Often to Mulch

The best time to mulch new plantings is right after you plant them. Around established plants mulch is best applied in early spring. This is when plants are beginning to grow and before weed seeds start to germinate.

How often mulch needs to be replenished depends on the mulching material. Grass clippings and leaves decompose very fast and need to be replenished frequently. Inorganic mulches such as gravel and pebbles rarely need replenishing. As the plants grow and fill in the bed areas, less and less mulch is needed.

How to Apply Mulch

Before applying any type of mulch to an area, it is best to weed the area. Spread a layer of mulching materials over the entire plant bed. Keep mulch 2 to 3 inches away from the stems of woody plants. This will prevent decay caused by wet mulch and rodent damage during the winter. Keep mulch 6 to 12 inches away from the walls of buildings.

Subterranean termites nest in the soil and feed on materials that contain cellulose. Termite treatments are applied to the soil around buildings, so keeping mulch away from walls will prevent termites from using it as a bridge to cross treated soil.

Newly planted trees require a circle of mulch 3 to 4 feet in diameter. Maintain this for at least three years. Do not pile mulch against the trunk. For established trees in lawns create a circle of mulch about 2 feet in diameter for each inch of trunk diameter. Increase the size of the mulched area as the tree grows. Try to apply the mulch at least 6 to 12 inches beyond the drip-line of the tree. Because the root system can extend two to three times the crown spread of the tree, mulch as large an area as possible.

How Deep to Mulch

The amount of mulch to apply depends on the texture and density of the mulch material. Many wood and bark mulches are composed of fine particles and should not be more than 2 to 3 inches deep. Excessive amounts of these fine-textured mulches can suffocate plant roots, resulting in yellowing of the leaves and poor growth.

Coarse-textured mulches such as pine bark nuggets allow good air movement through them and can be as deep as 4 inches.

Mulches composed of grass clippings or shredded leaves should never be deeper than 2 inches, because these materials tend to mat together, restricting the water and air supply to plant roots.

How to Calculate the Amount of Mulch Needed

To determine how many cubic feet of mulch is needed, you need to calculate the surface area and the desired depth of coverage. There are 27 cubic feet in a cubic yard. One cubic yard will cover a 324-square-foot area with an inch of mulch. Figure out the square footage of your bed, that is the width times the length for square or rectangular shaped beds. The square footage of a circular bed is the distance from the middle of the circle to the outside, multiplied by itself and then multiplied by 3.14 (which is pi).

Multiply your square footage by the depth desired (in inches) and divide by 324 square feet. This will tell you how many cubic yards you will need.

Problems

Mulch Toxicity
Though mulch benefits plants, "sour" mulch can quickly damage plant tissue and lower the soil pH causing injury or death. Bedding and low-growing woody plants are most easily damaged. Symptoms include yellowing of the leaf margins, scorching or dropping of leaves and occasionally entire plant death. Although it may be several days before symptoms appear, spreading sour mulch can damage plants immediately.

Sour or "acid" mulch is caused by poor handling or storing of mulch resulting in anaerobic (without air) conditions. Mulch piles need to "breathe" to prevent anaerobic conditions from occurring. In the absence of air, microbes in the mulch (mostly bacteria) produce toxic substances such as methanol, acetic acid, ammonia gas, and hydrogen sulfide gas.

Sour mulch smells like vinegar, ammonia, sulfur or silage. Good mulch smells like freshly cut wood or has the earthy smell of a good garden soil. Another way to determine if mulch is sour is to test its pH. Toxic mulch will have a pH of 1.8 to 2.5.

To prevent mulch from turning sour or to cure sour mulch, you need to turn your pile once or twice a month, more frequently if the pile is very wet. Do not let the pile get larger than 4 feet thick in any dimension if you are not turning the pile regularly. A good aeration will eliminate the toxic compounds in 24 hours, but to be safe allow three days.

The Artillery Fungus
Occasionally, micro- organisms in mulches can become a nuisance. The shotgun or artillery fungus (Sphaerobolus) may cause serious problems. While it decays the mulch, it also produces fruiting structures that resemble tiny cream or orange-brown cups that hold a spore mass resembling a tiny black egg (1/10 inch in diameter). This fungus shoots these spore masses high into the air. They stick to any surface and resemble small tar spots on leaves of plants, on cars or on the siding of homes. They are very difficult to remove.

To avoid damage to cars and houses do not use mulches that contain cellulose (wood). Use pure bark mulches, especially pine, or if the mulch is already in place, cover the hardwood mulch with pine needles.

Slime Molds
Slime molds are another type of nuisance fungus. They first appear as bright yellow or orange slimy masses that may be several inches to a foot or more in diameter. They are harmless but unsightly. Some fungi in mulches produce toad stools (mushrooms), and some of these are toxic to humans. It is a good idea to destroy them when small children have access to the mulched area.

What is Thatch? Thatch is a tightly intermingled layer of living and dead stems, leaves and roots which accumulates between the layer of actively-growing grass and the soil underneath. Thatch is a normal component of an actively growing turfgrass. As long as the thatch is not too thick, it can increase the resilience of the turf to heavy traffic. Thatch develops more readily on high-maintenance lawns than on low-maintenance lawns.
How does thatch affect turf quality?
An excessive thatch layer (more than 1 inch) can restrict the movement of air, water, fertilizer and other materials to the roots. This air- and water-impervious layer causes the grass to restrict rooting to the thatch layer to get air and water and, hence, reduces drought resistance in the turf. Furthermore, if the thatch dries out, it cannot be re-wetted easily. Even if the thatch stays moist, it can harbor fungi which can cause turf diseases. When temperature and moisture conditions are right, a disease infestation can kill the already weakened turf. The overall effect of a thick thatch layer is an unthrifty lawn which does not respond well to management practices and is easily injured by adverse weather conditions and pests.
How does thatch develop?
The major causes of thick thatch accumulation are management practices that reduce the population of organisms which decompose thatch and/or that cause plant material to build up more quickly than the microorganisms present can break it down. Research has shown that earthworm and microorganism activity play a vital role in preventing excess thatch accumulation. Good aeration, soil pH around 6.5 and adequate moisture favor the build-up and activity of beneficial microorganisms. Thatch problems have been noticed more often in acidic and compacted soils, as a healthy microorganism population does not flourish under these conditions. Unbalanced fertilization and indiscriminate use of fungicides and insecticides are the most detrimental to beneficial organisms in turf. Too much nitrogen can promote disease development. High-nitrogen fertilizing speeds up lush, succulent growth that is more prone to insect pests and disease. Moreover, many disease-causing fungi can live on cut clippings as well as on living grass plants. These clippings are then added to the thatch layer that harbors disease organisms until the environmental conditions are right for disease development. Leaving grass clippings on the lawn, however, does not necessarily cause an increase in thatch buildup. Leaving short clippings after mowing does not add to thatch development--soil microorganisms break the clippings down quickly and return a valuable source of balanced nutrients back to the turf. Proper management practices, therefore, promote healthier turf that will need fewer pesticides and can maintain a healthy population of beneficial organisms. Grasses which produce a large amount of side shoots, such as Kentucky bluegrass (produces rhizomes) and creeping bentgrass (produces stolons), tend to produce thatch readily.
How can you identify the presence of thatch?
To determine if your lawn has a thatch problem, cut out a small, triangular-shaped plug of turf several inches deep and examine. Note the spongy layer of material above the mineral soil. If this layer is more than 3/4 to 1 inch thick when you compress it, you should consider having your lawn dethatched or beginning a management program which will encourage thatch decomposition.
How do you dethatch a lawn?
When thatch has accumulated to an excessive thickness, it is best reduced by mechanical means. Dethatcher machines known as vertical mowers, verticutters, dethatchers or power rakes have vertically spinning blades which pull some of the material to the surface as they slice the thatch layer. Most equipment rental outlets have dethatching machines available for renting. Mechanical dethatching should be done in either late summer or fall when cool weather prevails. Caution! DO NOT attempt to remove the entire thatch layer in one treatment; DO NOT dethatch when soil is wet; only dethatch your lawn when it is needed rather than on a routine basis. In addition to dethatching, the lawn should be aerated and limed if necessary. Lime and aeration stimulate bacterial decomposition by improving air, water and nutrient relationships. Some garden centers and equipment rental companies rent aerators.
You can also topdress your lawn after dethatching with about 1/8 inch of topsoil similar to the soil underlying the turf. Topdressing helps even out bumpiness and fill in holes left from dethatching and/or aerating. Topdressing is usually only necessary in special cases, however, and using the wrong topdressing material can be more detrimental than the benefit of evening a bumpy turf area. Do not topdress with a different type of soil. A dissimilar soil will not mix well enough with the underlying soil.
Other maintenance practices which discourage thatch build-up are frequent mowings to maintain the grass at a height of 2 1/2 inches, keeping clippings on the lawn, reducing nitrogen fertilization and amending the soil with phosphorus, potassium, and lime according to a soil nutrient analysis

Cut your grass higher Many people like to think of their lawn as their own personal putting green. But close-cropped putting greens are among the most intensively managed—watered, fertilized, and chemically sprayed—patches of land in the world. Your grass will be much happier (and healthier and greener) if you loosen your stranglehold on it, and you'll be able to spend more time relaxing instead of working on your lawn.

The first step to this new paradigm is to raise the height of your mower. If you live in southern states, you'll want something around 2-1/2 inches high; in shadier northern states, 3-1/2 inches is recommended.

Taller grass has multiple benefits:

•The larger mass of grass blades makes the grass look greener overall, and problem spots will look less obvious than they did when you were mowing at putting-green heights.
•The extra green on top delivers more nutrients to the grass' roots and helps them grow deep, giving the grass better access to water and making it more drought-tolerant. Deeper roots also mean better access to soil nutrients.
•The thicker root mass and the taller green parts work to crowd out weeds by keeping weed seeds from germinating and crowding out any unwanted plant pests that do manage to germinate.
•Taller grass leaves help keep the sun off the soil, helping to preserve its water content.
•Your longer-cut lawn will require less mowing. (Cutting the grass short stimulates the plants to try to grow faster to make up for their lost greenery.)
While cutting higher is beneficial, certain fine-leafed grasses tend to fall over or get pushed down by the lawnmower, resulting in uneven cutting. If you're finding this is the case, try lowering the mower deck by a half-inch at a time until you find the preferred height. Alternately, mowing your lawn a little more often may also help allow you to maintain a tall "cut height" but still avoid the falling-over problem. If only a few problem areas suffer from falling-over grass blades, doing a second or third pass

over these areas can help touch them up. This usually works, especially when the additional passes are done at different angles.

Finally, most experts recommend not cutting off more than a third of your grass at any one time—doing so may stress the grass. So, if you're going for a cut height of 3-1/2 inches, you'd want to mow the lawn by the time it gets to about 5 inches tall.